A Taste of What’s to Come

…on the Bay Area Restaurant Scene in 2011

By Sammi Jo Jones

“Bon appétit!” Julia Child used to say with a broad smile. That seems to be the mantra among area diners as new, different and diverse restaurants open and expand. Despite the economy’s impact on the restaurant business, new restaurants continue to open and a growing numbers of consumers are willing to pay a little more for menu items with perceived value or health benefits.

Healthier eating is a strong culinary theme this year – from menus including calorie counts to smaller portions with smaller prices, and in-season, locally grown products.

The top menu trends for 2011, according to a survey of chefs conducted by the National Restaurant Association, reflect the growing nationwide awareness of the importance of supporting local farms and small food industries while simultaneously dining on in-season, good-for-you vegetables, fruits, herbs, meats, fowl and seafood. The leading trend this year is locally sourced meats and seafood, bumping locally grown produce to the number two spot. Sustainability, like last year, was the third-ranked trend.

Nutritionally balanced children’s dishes scored fourth place in 2011, up two spots from last year. Nationwide, restaurants that previously considered themselves too sophisticated for kids have become more family-friendly, an effort to get the grownups out of the house – and seated at their tables.

The Revolving Door Restaurant Scene

 

The 2010 restaurant scene in the Chesapeake Bay area

ended the year on a sad note with a three-alarm fire gutting the popular Edgewater eatery, the Old Stein Inn, on Mayo Road. The 27-year-old family-owned restaurant, renowned for its wide selection of beers and friendly atmosphere, suffered more than $550,000 in damages. It is expected to reopen by mid-year.

Hemingway’s and Lola’s Sunset Grill, both located on Kent Island at the eastern foot of the Bay Bridge closed in October after a 20-year run. The owners, Steve and Biana Arentz plan to open a new Lola’s in Castle Marina, also on Kent Island. The property owners are already renovating the old waterfront building and expect to open a new restaurant on this site by early spring.

Jasper’s in Crofton also closed last year. The once popular eating spot was the site of four previous restaurants dating to the mid-70s.

In Severna Park, the Breakfast Shoppe relocated a short distance away, expanding from 46 to 91 seats. Moving from 360 Ritchie Highway to a spot between Ledo’s Pizza and Annapolis Seafood Market in the Severna Park Plaza Shopping, the shoppe offers breakfast and lunch and proudly serves coffee from City Dock Coffee, a local favorite.

Three other iconic restaurants moved during the year.

Bulldozers flattened the old Mexican Café in October to make way for a CVS. Beloved for its killer margaritas and front porch dining area, Mexican Cafe was a Bay Ridge Road landmark on the Annapolis Neck for many years. It is reopening at 609 Melvin Avenue in West Annapolis, which used to house the former Northwoods Restaurant. Construction is happening now, but there’s been no word on when it’s officially opening.

Wild Orchid Cafe moved from 909 Bay Ridge Road to its new home at 200 Westgate Circle, an area that is buzzing with new restaurants and shops. Gone is the cottage look, replaced with a new age interior that includes a “top chef” kitchen, two large dining areas and a lounge with a full bar. What remains is co-owner and chef Jim Wilder’s dedication to promoting pure and local food – something he did before local sourcing became a buzzword.

The café’s former location is not staying vacant. The Manfredonia family, including Chuck, his son Alex and daughter Megan Hall, are opening Vin 909 Winecafe and Restaurant later this month. Expect a mix of Mediterranean, Greek, Italian and American cuisine, hearth oven pizzas, paninis, seafood, sandwiches, vegetarian offerings, wines and craft beers. Meals will range in pricing from $10 to $30.

Main Street Annapolis will be seeing some new menus soon. Another wine bar is opening at 189B Main Street in Annapolis, where American Craftworks was located. Called Red Red Wine Bar, it is owned by Brian Bolter, a Washington DC FOX News anchor, and his wife, Lisa Bolter. Further down Main Street, the old Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream shop will house a Jimmy John’s “JJ’s” Gourmet Sandwich franchise, owned by Kyle Murphy.

Ego Sushi, at 105 Main Street, with its clear view of Ego Alley, replaces the fusion restaurant Yin Yankee Café and is run by the owners of Nano Sushi, further up Main Street. In warmer weather, there is a trio of outdoor tables to better view the passing parade. Online reviews have given the spot kudos for its green curry, the spicy drunken noodles with chicken, the appetizers and its moderate pricing.

The casually elegant Rockfish on Severn Avenue in Eastport has been kvelling about its exciting new executive chef Sean Holland. Holland, imported from Philadelphia where he was involved with several upscale restaurants, has tweaked the menu significantly; however, the restaurant continues with its mission of offering menus of locally sourced produce, fish and meat, and growing many of the herbs it uses on its rooftop. There is a sumptuous amount of seafood that is drawn from the nearby waters of the Chesapeake and the Atlantic and prepared in myriad, mouth-watering ways. It also offers a selection of beef, duck, veal and organic chicken. For sheer poetry, glance at its “sides” menu – the honey roasted

winter vegetables sound divine.

 

The Sporting Life

Up on the second level at Annapolis Towne Center, the Cadillac Ranch All American Bar & Grill boasts about having the best mechanical bull in Annapolis. Corralled by padded flooring, the handsome, daunting beast keeps company with 30 plasma TVs and a 10-foot video wall tuned to various sports events. Monday, kids under 12 eat free. All week long, gorgeous flavored martinis abound. While the steaks are tasty, the candied pecan pork chops on a bed of sweet potato fries and green beans are positively drool-inducing.

Billiards pub TK Sharkeys Rock’n Sports Grille closed just as Annapolis Towne Center, across the street, was heating up. Wild Willy’s Rock House & Sports Saloon quickly filled the spot. The new fun spot features happy hour specials from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday, and American cuisine all week. Friday and Saturday nights rock with live local music.

The old Bennigan’s Restaurant at 6713 Ritchie Highway in Glen Burnie, part of a nationwide closing of nearly 300 restaurants in the chain in 2008, is now the new location of Pappas Restaurant and Sports Bar, the family’s second restaurant; the first opening in 1972 in Baltimore. Ravens fans rejoice as one of the walls in this friendly seafood restaurant is decorated with framed, signed Ravens jerseys. The menu tackles appetites better than Ray Lewis with its 6 ounce crabcake and variety of beef, chicken, pork and pasta.

The new River Bay Roadhouse, replacing Bella’s in the shopping strip at 1374 Cape St. Claire Road, was gutted and completely redecorated by new owner Dan Miller, including expensive steel door handles resembling western pistols. Chef Brendon O’Dea is working out the American cuisine and seafood menu, which ranges in price from $10 to $30 for a meal.

             

Casual-to-Go

Back at Annapolis Towne Center Philly Flash opens its second Annapolis location, serving revved up fast food, including cheesesteaks, pizza and wings in a vintage ‘50s-flavored setting. Philly Flash is owned locally by seven members of the DeCesaris family.

 

Menchies, also at Annapolis Towne Center, offers a one-stop shop for frozen yogurt aficionados, in an up-beat location replete with a children’s party room. Pick a flavor, pick your toppings, weigh, pay and go!

Benfield Road in Severna Park is home to two new coffee houses: Wrap & Brew and Mutt + Joe. While both offer ample seating and serve gourmet coffee bar selections, each has a different twist as their names indicate.

Wrap & Brew offers a selection of freshly-made house wraps, soups, smoothies and desserts. Mutt & Joe offers dog-washing services, treats, shirts and accessories.

Locally International

 

Nandos Peri-Peri brings a new offering to the area, located at Westfield Annapolis Mall. Known around the globe, in 34 different countries, for its Afro-Portuguese flame-grilled chicken, the casual restaurant’s menu offers individual entrees and platters designed for sharing family style. There are sandwiches, wraps, pitas, and vegetarian options, plus an extensive list of award-winning Portuguese and South African wines and Portuguese beer.

In September, the Paladar Latin Kitchen & Rum Bar, opened by the Cleveland-based Himmel family, made a vivid addition at Annapolis Towne Center, across from Gordon Biersch. With its sleek interior of hard woods combined with bold fuchsia, amber and teal, Paladar imports modern and rustic Latin American culture. In a fresh, American interpretation of Latin American cuisine created by chef Joseph F. Tis, there are homemade salsas, fresh seafood, grilled meats and a guacamole bar. Paladar offers gluten-free entrees and a children’s menu with a 4 oz. skirt steak. With a library of over fifty rums, its bartenders make fantastic hand-muddled mojitos, caipirinhas and margaritas.

Opened a year ago, the Latin Quarter, at 169 West Street, is next to Lemongrass and the third restaurant in a decade on the site, replacing the short-lived Jerry’s Seafood and, before that, Metropolitan. Spread over three levels and graced with a rooftop bar, its California-style Mexican food is served family style. All the food is made in-house from its taco shells, chips, salsa, and guacamole to its margaritas, mojitos and sangrias. The menu also includes a number of items to entice parents of youngsters to make an evening out a family affair.

Crush Winehouse on West Street, next to Loews Hotel, claims to be the only true European style winebar, offering tastings and retail sales in the same location. Unlike the formerly located Purple Tooth wine bar, Crush offers a larger dining menu with over 70 wines. Their “simply grilled entrees” feature all-natural meats, produced without antibiotics or hormones. Bocconcini, bite-sized starters, whet the appetite with seared scallops and a wide selection of bruschette, cheese with bread and honey and affettati, specialty cured meats. The dessert menu is sweetened by a lush range of chocolate truffles. 

Centreville is home to Brique, formerly Julia’s, on 122 North Commerce Street. Opening to upbeat reviews in July, Brique is an elegant addition to the Eastern Shore cuisine scene – actually a jewel in the region’s culinary crown. Chef William Nolan serves a Modern American menu with a French accent in a 60-seat dining room with a wine bar and bare brick walls. From Annapolis it’s a short 35-minute hop across the Bay Bridge.

Put on your bib and let your belt out a notch. It’s time to chaperone your taste buds to all the new haute eating spots in the Bay area.

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